How to change a tubeless tire with the onboard tools…
Tools needed: I typically use only the tools I carry on my bike, in this way I know I can do the job as well when stranded in Tjeeleetjap. (don’t ask where that is..) In this post I used my carpeted garage floor.
- Tire spoons, 2 pcs (powder coated) Pit Posse Tire Spoons
- “Aluminum” Tire bead breakers BeadPro Tire Bead Breaker (an also be used as an extra tire spoon.)
- Tire Lubricant (No-Mar) Tire Lube Paste 1-pint
- Valve removal tool
- 3 pcs Cut up plastic milk Jug protectors (4″ x 5 “)
- A couple small wooden blocks.
- Adjustable straps, 4 pcs. (Usually free at the local BMW dealer, if you are nice to them..)
- 12V compressor and pressure gauge. (I’m using a 25 dollar model from Walmart for years already)
- 6-pack on ice (any maker, although I have my preferences….)
For a tire repair / plug kit I typically use:
- Tire repair kit from “Stop & Go”
- Additional seal strings (sold at your local O’reilly Auto parts Seal strings )
*Tip: Pictures can be individual supper sized by double clicking!
Place your new tire in the sun if possible to warm it up.
1) Remove the wheel from the bike, deflate the tire and place it on a surface with some sort of protection, strips of wood, towel, cardboard, carpet, just to protect the rim and brake disc (front wheels) where applicable.
2) Spray enough windex in the valley between the rim and the tire.
3) Start with the bead breaker by gently pushing the part with fork between the rim and the tire and insert the other lever into the center section. Squeeze the sections together like a plier and spray windex in the opening, allow the windex to start working and hold the tool firm. The small wooden blocks will help to keep the gap open. Once the opening increases reposition the tool and work your way around. Key is to use enough windex to break the bead. (Watch out for pressure sensors if outfitted and avoid damaging with the bead breaker)
4) Do this for both sides of the tire, make sure to use enough windex to brake the entire bead all around.
5) Place the plastic milk jug protectors between the rim and tire and insert the tire spoon between the edge of the tire over the plastic. Make sure the spoon part is facing up towards the tire. Use 2 setups like this and pop off the tire. (It doesn’t harm to use more Windex at this stage as it will help to slide off the tire.) Again work your way around and make sure to use the plastic between spoon and rim to avoid unnecessary scratching.
6) Use the same tire spoons and protectors or the Bead breaker to take the tire complete of the rim, (use windex and plastics…)
7) Make sure to clean the entire rim and remove dirt etc. especially around the edges where the bead is to be set. I use windex and cloth.
8) Take the 4 straps and place them around the tires to push the beads together at 90 degrees intervals. Keep the location of the valve in the middle of the straps (see under 10)
9) Use the No-Mar tire lubricant and apply to each side of the beads all around. (It’s all in the lube..)
10) Make sure to note the rotation direction, as well there maybe a red dot on one side of the tire what indicates the location of the valve. (the lighter spot) It is also a good to start at the valve if a pressure sensor is present. In that case you want to place the open gap over the sensor first. (You only do that wrong once :-0)
11) Place the tire over the rim and start pushing the the tire slowly in place, the No-Mar lubricant is key and will do the trick. The side of the tire what is already on the rim should be pushed in the “valley” of the rim allowing for more working space on the opposite side. Try to avoid using tire spoons by using your own weight and walk/push the tire on. An extra pair of hands / feet will help. It depends on the size and brand of the tire how smooth it will go. If necessary use a pc of plastic milk jug protector and tire spoon for the very last push on. Remember, “it is all in the lube”
12) Once the tire is on, remove the straps by pulling them off the rim. Put the rim straight up and roll the wheel around while pushing the tire in place.
13) Place the valve back and start pumping up the tire with using the electric compressor. If the Tire is in place and not leaking than your on board compressor is sufficient to get the tire pressurized, this is also a reason for having enough lube as it will help creating a seal for the gaps. If the tire keeps leaking around the bead than try to push the tire in place while pumping air. Once the tire is in place and pressure increases, there should be two loud pops, (around 25-30 PSI) one each side pushing the final bead section in place. MAKE ALWAYS SURE TO KEEP YOUR FINGERS CLEAR FROM THE BEAD AREA AND RIM!!
14) Clean any mess and remove the old balancing weights if you are planning on balancing the wheel and tire. It depends on the tire and type of riding you are planning, if you want to balance the tire. I usually do if I can for new tires. For this I’m using a cheap Harbor Freight Motorcycle Wheel Balancer however I’m using the shaft and wheel balancer kit from Marc Parnes since the shaft from Harbor freight is a pc of junk. No-Mar sells as well re-usable balancing weights what works great for spoked wheels. No-Mar weights
15) For a tire with inner tube, the procedure is not much different other than using a plug puller tool to get the valve tube thru the hole of the rim and make sure not to pinch / poke a hole in the tube as you will have to start all over again.